Looking specifically at the two-part black frame that contains the rest of the keyboard parts.

The lighting accentuates it and makes it look worse than it is, and it’s certainly not hard to live with, but it’d be nice to fix it.

Basic Ender 3 clone (Voxelab Aquila) with no real physical mods to speak of. PLA, .2mm layer height, 50 or 60mm/second. Happy to add any other details as requested.

  • IMALlama@lemmy.worldEnglish
    11·
    13 days ago

    If it’s new and getting worse, I would check for loose screws first. Especially if it happened out of nowhere. It never hurts to check belt tension. You don’t want too loose, but you also don’t want too tight so don’t just tighten them.

    If this has always been present in your prints then congrats, you have ringing! You can decrease it by lowering acceleration/jerk/square corner velocity. If you want to get fancy, ringing can also be combatted with input shaping. Klipper makes this easier than Marlin, but it is possible to do on Marlin printers too.

    • wjrii@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      2·
      13 days ago

      Thanks. It seems like it’s fairly new, and the next print I did was similar in size and shape and with the same roll of PLA, but it has a less pronounced effect, though I can still feel it. I’ll check and see if any similar sized prints from farther back exhibit it, but I could very easily imagine something getting knocked a bit when I was last messing around with it. I had a roll of “Eco” filament that was giving me no end of trouble and eventually required a hot pull and new nozzle, and I changed out the plastic extruder for an aluminum one while I was doing stuff.

      • IMALlama@lemmy.worldEnglish
        2·
        13 days ago

        If you swapped hot ends I suggest printing a temp tower. When I went from a PTFE tube to a microswiss hot end on my i3 clone I remember having print one and change my extruder temp. Granted, thi was 5+ years ago…